![]() First, it has a nice big display of the elapsed time of the recording, next it has a preview function to allow you to set recording levels before you actually start recording. ![]() Next we come to software and the actual recoding process itself.Īfter trying more than a few different softwares I've come to a combination that does a good job for me.įor the recording process I like Wave Repair, it's a shareware/freeware that has nice features for recording. If it's good enough for CDs it's good enough for me. I'm getting great results sampling at 44.1 kHz and don't see any reason to go to a higher sampling rate. It's a very good soundcard but it doesn't have the latest bells and whistles so everyone avoids them. My soundcard is a Turtle Beach "Santa Cruz" which I picked up on ebay for less than twenty dollars shipped. Most preamps don't distort much and the distortion in the record overwhelms anything in the preamp.Ī good soundcard is a necessity, the on board soundcard is not good enough to do a really quality job. I haven't found that the preamp makes that much difference as long as the one you use is low noise and low hum. They even make special 3 mil styli for playing 78 rpm records which have a substantially larger groove than an lp, you can get those styli on ebay for a surprisingly decent price. The microline stylus seems to make a difference since it appears that it rides in a slightly different portion of the groove than a regular stylus and thus is contacting a portion of the groove which is less worn. My cartridge is an Audio Technica middle of the line product and I have a microline stylus. My setup is a Sanyo direct drive, linear tracking turntable from the early eighties. If your tap water is really "hard" you may wish to use distilled water for the whole process but I haven't found it necessary.Ī decent turntable, cartridge and stylus make a big difference. I use regular tap water for the washing and then a final rinse with distilled water which I get at the grocery store. Ivory dishwashing liquid works well for me, along with a soft polyester fiber painter's brush which I move parallel to the grooves in a sort of scraping motion, trying to dislodge the crap in the grooves. A lot of the skipping is apparently due to large (in relation to the record groove) pieces of trash in the groove, this makes the needle jump out of the groove, causing either a skip or a loud pop and a jump of a groove or two. Second, clean your records before you try to rip them. If you set a drink cup down a bit too hard it sounds like an earthquake by the time you enhance the bass and play the WAV file back over a good sound system, or, Allah forbid, quality headphones. You can damn near hear every keystroke and mouse click in the finished product. I've learned a lot during the process and since I've seen at least one other post here that mentioned ripping vinyl I thought I would share a little of what I've learned.įirst thing, *don't* put your turntable on the computer desk on which you work. Posted: Wed 11:38 pm Post subject: Ripping vinyl, a mini tutorial.Īs I mentioned in in some of my posts in the General forum, I'm ripping an extensive vinyl lp collection to digital media. Safety 13cm deep anti-slip treads and long telescope handrail to provide even more safety.Profile Log in to check your private messages Log in
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